I dont see anywhere to adjust the slack in the chain on my wifes 2003 Trailboss 330. Can someone help me out on this one?

 

this is hard to explain but I'll try .start with losseing the 2 bolts a little up from the hitch than to the right of the disk brake you will see another bolt to losen (to the left of the hitch near the bottom)than take a pipe wrench and put it around the round thing right behind the hitch and twist should titened if you could follow this post right.(remenber don't tighten it to much leave about 1 inch of slack or you will wreck your chain i'm on my 2nd chain.

 

loosen the two bolts that squeeze the bearing carrier (one on left/one on right)

loosen the two bolts that clamp the brake assembly(both on left, one is higher/one is lower)

then take channel locks and grab the bearing carrier where it is shaped like a large Hex nut (in the middle), and rotate it (cam type) till the chain tightens.

I assume that it is the same as the trailblazer and scrambler. Just leave about 1" of slack top to bottom. (the chain stays the same tension constantly on that bike)(during suspension travel) (concentric drive)

good luck

 

So, did you get it figured out????

 

chain slack on the trail boss is 3/16-3/8 inch or 10mm per my trailboss manual.
beofre you check slack roll the ATV forward first to gain slack on the top side of the chain

check your owner manual it is outlined in great detail.
there is a hole in your rear chain sprocket closer to the center , this hole will lign up with the bearing hub . you can put screwdriver or a "pounch" through this hole to lock the sprocket to the hub, now you can roll the bike forward to to turn the hub and also tighten the chain. this is an easier way than trying to turn it with a channel lock.
agian this is form the owner manual, i did not make it up.

 

based on nothing but experience, I would still go an inch (top to bottom)

anything else is too tight

 

jack the rear end before you adjust

 

so you are saying disregard what the people who designed this quad suggests, (manufacture) ?

1 inch you say ???? cold or hot?

 

Zsebi is right. You do not need much slack in the chain. If you look at the shape of the housing and carrier in back you will see that it is shaped in such a way that as you turn it, it is pushed further away tightening the chain. You just roll the atv forward or back to tighten or loosen it. Also you can use the handle of the sparkplug wrench to put into the hole in the sprocket and bearing carrier. I have found that the stock chains on most Polaris machines are very soft and stretch easily. The front sprocket usually wears very fast as well, I have had the front sprocket lose all its teeth on a trail ride before. When we replaced both with aftermarket units we didn't have to tighten chain nearly as much and never lost the teeth on front sprocket again. Another problem that we have encountered is the plastic chain guide/protector. It can catch your master link on the chain when backing up and "voila!" no more chain! Take it off and throw it away! The chain/sprocket problems were the only complaints I have had with the 2 Trail Bosses I have had.

 

1" hot
the chain should be tight enough to keep from slapping the swingarm,,,,but not so tight that undue stress is placed on the transfer case, which I have found to be about 1".

3/16 to 3/8 will give you headaches down the road. (replacing more expensive parts)

anyhow

good luck

been there, done that