01 bear tracker, carb issues
#12
This rubber hose between the carb and intake is bonded to the short intake tube and that is why there is no hose clamp on it. The original part has bonding on 2 surfaces and once you get the old one off you might see rubber still bonded to the intake pipe.
I pulled mine and cleaned it a bit, replaced the intake tube but now it is running somewhat worse than before. I can now get it to idle without the choke on but it is very rough and the floats are not stopping fuel from entering the bowl so I found a large gas spot under the machine after a short break.
I'll get it off again today and will pull the jets and float to clean them and hope that it will be fixed once I get it back together.
I need to figure out what if any settings I need to change. I noticed that if I have it running with the choke open at a higher REV, the exhaust pipe starts to glow red hot and I can only imagine that is way to hot for this engine and not good on the piston or rings.
I pulled mine and cleaned it a bit, replaced the intake tube but now it is running somewhat worse than before. I can now get it to idle without the choke on but it is very rough and the floats are not stopping fuel from entering the bowl so I found a large gas spot under the machine after a short break.
I'll get it off again today and will pull the jets and float to clean them and hope that it will be fixed once I get it back together.
I need to figure out what if any settings I need to change. I noticed that if I have it running with the choke open at a higher REV, the exhaust pipe starts to glow red hot and I can only imagine that is way to hot for this engine and not good on the piston or rings.
#13
#14
Not much help here as I work in the medical field and not a mechanic. I do notice that cranking with out starting will cause some fuel to go back into the airbox.
Now if you have fuel flowing back into the airbox it would sound like the float is not stopping the fuel flow and the overflow is blocked (small line running out the bottom of carb) and I would guess the next place for fuel to reach would be the air box. Might be difficult to imagine it happening that way though.
As for my carb, someone had already been in there and messed up the screws on the outside of the carb top and bottom. This is usually not a good sign when someone screws up the heads on the screws. What was worse than that since I was able to grind a slot in them and get them out, was the screwed up pilot screw. I see no way of getting it out and since I am not a machine shop I plan on solving my problem with a new carb for $334. Sure it is expensive on an ATV that I have purchased for $500 but I think its overall value is still more than what I have invested in it. A new carb should get it running well.
Anyone want an old carb for "parts"? Make offer!
Now if you have fuel flowing back into the airbox it would sound like the float is not stopping the fuel flow and the overflow is blocked (small line running out the bottom of carb) and I would guess the next place for fuel to reach would be the air box. Might be difficult to imagine it happening that way though.
As for my carb, someone had already been in there and messed up the screws on the outside of the carb top and bottom. This is usually not a good sign when someone screws up the heads on the screws. What was worse than that since I was able to grind a slot in them and get them out, was the screwed up pilot screw. I see no way of getting it out and since I am not a machine shop I plan on solving my problem with a new carb for $334. Sure it is expensive on an ATV that I have purchased for $500 but I think its overall value is still more than what I have invested in it. A new carb should get it running well.
Anyone want an old carb for "parts"? Make offer!
#15
#16
This rubber hose between the carb and intake is bonded to the short intake tube and that is why there is no hose clamp on it. The original part has bonding on 2 surfaces and once you get the old one off you might see rubber still bonded to the intake pipe.
I pulled mine and cleaned it a bit, replaced the intake tube but now it is running somewhat worse than before. I can now get it to idle without the choke on but it is very rough and the floats are not stopping fuel from entering the bowl so I found a large gas spot under the machine after a short break.
I'll get it off again today and will pull the jets and float to clean them and hope that it will be fixed once I get it back together.
I need to figure out what if any settings I need to change. I noticed that if I have it running with the choke open at a higher REV, the exhaust pipe starts to glow red hot and I can only imagine that is way to hot for this engine and not good on the piston or rings.
I pulled mine and cleaned it a bit, replaced the intake tube but now it is running somewhat worse than before. I can now get it to idle without the choke on but it is very rough and the floats are not stopping fuel from entering the bowl so I found a large gas spot under the machine after a short break.
I'll get it off again today and will pull the jets and float to clean them and hope that it will be fixed once I get it back together.
I need to figure out what if any settings I need to change. I noticed that if I have it running with the choke open at a higher REV, the exhaust pipe starts to glow red hot and I can only imagine that is way to hot for this engine and not good on the piston or rings.
BRU
#17
picked up a bear tracker cheap, with some issues. it was running away, popping, and had to keep the choke on, etc....took the carb off, cleaned it up, now its running much better. sort of. now is seems as though it is getting way too much air, or not enough fuel. i have the adjustment screw turned out more turns than i like to admit. messing around with things a bit i took the air filter out, and partially blocked the intake with duct tape, which in turn makes it run much better. missing a little punch off the line, but not totally bogging out. any ideas here? i dont claim to be the carb king, but this seems to be the most complex carb i have seen in a while.
#18
I just replaced that part on my wheeler (beartracker). After seeing the new part it is pretty clear that the aluminum and the rubber are fused/molded together in the manufacturing of the part. My wheeler is ten years old with a fair amount of use; so ten years isn't to bad for longevity of that pricey bugger.
#19
We have an '01 Bear Tracker 250 with similar carb issues. The thing won't run unless the choke is pulled out just a touch - guess it could use a good cleaning. It has been left alone for a couple of months at a time without being run, but was always stored with a fuel aditive in the tank and run through the carb. Anyway, it recently developed a new problem. It started popping and stalled. Discovered the rubber intake tube (between the carb and the cast aluminum intake on the cylinder head) has become loose and there is a gap which allows air into the intake without going through the carb. There is only one clamp at the carb-to-rubber tube side and none at the rubber tube-to-intake side (where it came apart). The blow-up parts diagram from the dealership shows the same thing, so how is the rubber tube supposed to stay attached tightly at both ends with only one hose clamp at one end? They want me to buy a $40 replacement intake assembly that still has just one clamp at one end. The other end seems to just be relying merely on pressure againstthe carb to keep the flanged end of the rubber tube tight to the aluminum intake tube. The design doesn't seem to lend itself to the installation of any kind of clamp I know of. If you have a 250 Bear Tracker (around 2001), please look at yours and let me know if There is a clamp at both ends of the rubber tube between the carb and aluminum intake, or is there only one - like mine.
Thanks.
Thanks.